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Tuesday, 28 December 2010
Pattern reworking on Simplicity 3782-Sizing up
To be 100% honest, I have never made a plus size gown before, the largest gown size I made was a size 12 and I didn't modify it one bit, I'm quite liking this challenge! Muriel is a size 20-22, and the pattern I have only goes up to a 20, which is in places, a few inches taller and a few inches thinner than she is. Obviously made for size 20 models who are closer to 6 feet tall, and not for a petite lady. So I have to do some clever reworking. I want things to be held in, supported, and fitted, and so I have gotten some spiral steel boning in addition to plastic boning I will be using for the bodice. I cut out a mockup of the bodice last night and added extra room for the bust and waist, and also modified the collar a bit so it will be a bit taller, and stand up more. I made a bit of a whoops though, and didn't cut it long enough to accomodate the extra width I added in the back, so I have cut another panel to add to the back of the neck. I am quite liking this challenge, larger size=more fabric which= more room to decorate! Buuut, she wants a fauirly simple gown so far, fitted sleeves with shoulder rolls, single skirt no problem, but not a lot of trim on the bodice. I'll add a touch more on the shoulder rolls :-) The light olive green tone should go beautifully with her olive/golden undertoned skin and dark hair too, I'm so excited! I am mailing out the bodice mockup tomorrow, and then I'll start work on the skirt, sometime tonight, or tomorrow. I am annoyed with the habutae silk as it is a synthetic and therefore tricky to work with. It flows and hangs beautifully but I need to iron it on a low setting. I'm torn as to whether I should starch it to make it stiffer, or sew it while it's all flowy, I may starch it on the skirt, along the pleats to help keep them in place...we shall see.....
I have made this one out of a stiff curtain lining fabric, and will stitch it together today and ship it out to Muriel tomorrow so she can see how it fits. Until then, I have Di's gown which I'll be cutting out the bodice mockup tonight and putting it together as well so I can hopefully ship both tomorrow. I'll then start work on the skirts for both of the gowns and Di's partlet.